Tuesday, November 24
Passed the confluence of the Moselle and the Rhine at Koblenz. Now on the Rhine, passing through Koblenz.
This afternoon we’re floating through the middle Rhine with its pretty towns, vineyards, forested hills, and castles. We’ll soon be in Weisbaden and then Rudesheim. It’s too cold to stand outside on the veranda suite’s balcony and take photos but I have great photos from the 2012 Rhine Cruise of this region.
November 25, 2:18 pm
We’re on the Main now, sailing from Heidelberg to Miltenberg where the ship will dock and pick up the passengers who went on the Heidelberg excursion. I did that excursion in 2012 on a sunny June day (loved Heidelberg!) But too cold for me this time so decided to stay onboard. We’re floating past serene, rain-wet countryside, past villages and thick hillside forests tipped with gold, the deciduous trees having turned. In the distance picturesque clusters of houses and town buildings cupped by the hills. Mists hang in between the hills. Miltenberg, a lovely provincial city on the river. My companions and I took a walk on our own since the scheduled city walk would be in the evening dark.
We visited stately Johanneskirche, a Roman Catholic church built in 1897, strolled a cobbled street uphill past an old cemetery, and walked down centuries-old stairs past a garden of winter-bitten vines back to the main street. We viewed another old church with a medieval tower and baroque architecture side by side. We didn’t care to climb the hill to see it properly so stood in the street and looked up beyond a brick wall to where it rose in medieval splendor on its hill.
Bamberg was charming, its midtown clustered with buildings in the medieval and baroque styles. Harassed by a wintry wind, we made our way through narrow cobbled streets, watching out for cars wending along through tourists and residents. Despite the cheek-biting cold, I had to freeze my fingers getting a shot of the gorgeously painted town hall dating from medieval days, built on the river.
You might be wondering why in the world sun bunny me would take a European river cruise in November–it was a very, very good deal! Not only because it was in November. The Cities of Light cruise is a 15-day trip and is expensive even in the winter. Viking offered it this year at a third of the cost with round trip airfare out of LAX for $195 (free if you flew from the east coast) and veranda staterooms, which I could never afford otherwise. (Usually I’m in a cabin at the waterline.) I couldn’t pass it up.